A glance into the past.

Patchwork has been known for centuries. It has been used together with other methods to create clothing and home décor. Some of the oldest patchwork pieces are dated as long as 3000 years ago. (I bet it was linen, that lasted that long ). However the technique itself started its development in the16^th century in England and by 18^th century became a true art.

Patchwork. From Europe to America.

It all began when England started importing cotton from India. It became very fashionable to have a blanket from India that was embroidered or had a colorful print on it. Those products and fabrics became so popular, that English government, in order to protect English manufactures, issued a law that forbade selling fabrics from India as well as any products made from them. Of course it didn’t stop people from importing to England the product that was in demand. The new law only made it more exclusive and expensive. That’s when an idea of using leftovers became widely used and piece work became the ultimate technique of creating fashionable home decorations. Patchwork got to America with first settlers from Europe and soon became a truly national craft. A colorful quilt made from small pieces of fabric attached together can be found nowadays in almost every American home.

You vs. Leftovers

Do you have linen leftovers? And you are going to use them one day, right? Well today is the day! It is time to stop that pile of pieces that are too good to throw away from growing. It is time to be creative. So get that bag of scraps out of your closet and let’s begin!

There are hundreds of beautiful patterns that have been developed since patchwork was first invented. I want to introduce to you to a few ornaments that I find very beautiful and yet quite simple to make.

“Chessboard”

It is one of the basic patchwork patterns. It is great for combining two fabrics of contrast colors together. But you can always mix in as many colors as you like.

Step 1.

Cut your fabric in strips so they have same width. Don’t forget to leave a little extra width on each side for seam allowances.

Step 2.

Sew strips together as shown on a picture below. Then iron the seams.

 

Step 3.

Take the piece you just made and divide it into strips of the same width as your original ones. Cut the fabric perpendicular to the seam leaving extra space for seam allowances. (see picture)

Step 4.

Take every other strip and rotate it up side down as shown on a picture below.

Step 5.

Sew strips together as shown below. Then iron. And you are done!

“Diamond”

Step 1.

First, you need to create a paper pattern template.

• Take a paper square that equals in size to the patchwork project that you will be creating. Divide each of its sides in half and mark that spot. Connect your marks with a line. You should get a tilted square in the center.

 

• In the square that you just got divide all sides in half, and repeat the operation in step 1a until you get a figure of a desired size in the middle. This little square in the center is the piece that we will start working with in Step 2.

Step 2.

Cut your fabric using center square template that you just created (don’t forget to leave some extra fabric for seam allowances). Then cut out 4 triangles from another fabric (use template of a triangle in the row marked “2” – see picture in Step 1). Place the square “face up” and put 1 triangle on top of it “face down” matching sides of both figures. Sew two pieces together as shown on a picture below. Then do the same for the remaining 3 triangles and iron.

Step 3.

You should have a new square. If its sides are not straight trim them with scissors.

 

Step 4.

Cut out other pieces according to your pattern and repeat Step 2 until you are done.

 

P.S.: Don't forget to send us pictures of your fabulous quits and patchwork projects!

IL020 -3.5 ounces a yard 100% linen is one of the finest linen fabrics available in the world and it is here now, just in time for your spring projects.

IL020, better known as Handkerchief linen, has an incredibly gentle hand, is woven using fine, long staple threads and has very few slubs.

The finesse of this easy in care, handkerchief linen makes it a favorite among people who love luxurious, comfortable surroundings.
IL020 linen fabric application is often seen in couture clothing, embroidered bedding, christening gowns, sleepwear, and in fine details of the interior decor.

The fabric selection that just arrived is based on designer color forecasts for Spring/Summer 2008.
For next week only – you can purchase these hot colors in the finest linen fabric at reduced prices!
Through March 30th, the price per yard has been reduced by 10%.
Enter here to go directly to IL020 colors for Spring/Summer 2008!

Have you heard of our Doggie Bag Section?

If you haven’t yet discovered this little oasis for bargain aficionados, let me point the way to additional savings on all in stock fabrics!

Regular stock fabrics - sold right on the next page at regular price - here in the Doggie Bag Section are sold at 20% off.

Every time we take a bolt and cut yardage to fill orders, at the end of the bolt we have an X amount of yards left.
Obviously this X amount of fabric is cut from both sides and because the fabric piece is already cut, we sell the piece with a discount.
You would cut the fabric anyway to make your project - so you are not only saving money, but as an extra bonus, you are saving time that you’d spend on cutting.

We wait until we have a variety of different fabrics, in a variety of lengths and post all of the pieces to the Doggie Bag Section in a group. A new group is posted approximately every two weeks. The fabric pieces are sold on the first come first serve basis, no exceptions.

As you can guess, we don’t have an unlimited amount of fabric pieces and if you are the first to know that new pieces are available - you get to have the first pick.

I don’t want you to miss out on getting your fabric at such a terrific discount and I am writing to notify you today of this incredible savings opportunity.
On top of the 20% that is already subtracted from the cost, you can also use your discount code at check out for additional savings.

Take this opportunity to sign up to receive Doggie Bag alerts and be the first to know when new fabric pieces are available.
Signing up is easy – at the top of Doggie Bag Section page there is a box where you need to enter your name and your primary email address. Click on “Add me to the doggie bag alert” and you will be notified when new pieces are posted.

Are you planning to attend a Renaissance re-enactment? If so, you should know a bit about Renaissance dress. A lot of clothing, during the Renaissance period, revolved around the use of linen.

In the early part of the sixteenth century, dress was actually similar to medieval times. Early Renaissance women often wore a linen chemise. A chemise is an undershirt, which often accompanied a kirtle. A kirtle is a long, simple frock. It was similar to a petticoat, with a full skirt, sleeves and a tight bodice.

Remember, when you’re looking for Renaissance clothing, around that time colors were generally strong and dark. While linen was important, black velvet was also an important fabric of the time. Meanwhile contrasting white linen was used a lot for wrist and collar ruffles. So, while it wasn’t always the main component, linen was an indispensable fabric of the time period.

As the Renaissance era progressed, fashions changed. During the later Renaissance, from 1520 to 1650, fashions lost their medieval look entirely. Around that time, slashing became popular and linen became even more prominent.

Slashing was the practice of cutting slits in outer fabric and pulling the inner fabric, usually linen, through the holes. The effect was a puffy look, which was seen as a good form of decoration during the time period. Sometimes the slashing was done in a deliberate pattern. Often, it was quite detailed. However, by 1650 slashing still existed, but usually as long vertical lines, not patterns.

Since slashing became such a fashion craze during the renaissance era, men and women’s linen chemises (under-shirts) were suddenly not just for practical use. Something that was formerly hidden suddenly became a main focal point. As a result, linen chemises became more decorative. The linen chemises were decorated with lace frills, which changed through the ages. This, believe it or not, prompted the creation of the modern necktie.

For women, especially, there were many other uses for linen in clothing during that era. Whether they were wearing linen collars, called collet monte of rotonde, or wearing a linen headdress, called a cornet, they needed linen. Of course, they also wore linen drawers (underwear) and coarse linen underskirts, known as farthingales or vertugadins. So, linen was really vital for the women of the time period.

The biggest change in linen clothing for men during the Renaissance was that men’s breeches became longer. Linen breeches were a bit like boxer shorts. They grew in length during the Renaissance period, so they were eventually decorated in a similar way to chemises.

When you are planning to attend a Renaissance re-enactment, keep all of those things in mind. Although these days it is not always possible to find the exact fabric colors used in olden days, you can certainly find suitable substitutes, if you know where to look. You can find most of the linen fabrics in matching Renaissance colors for your re-enactment project at www.fabrics-store.com!

Lovely Linen: A Guide for Sewing this Natural Fabric Dressy or casual, for a day at the office or a day on the boardwalk, garments made of natural linen are comfortable, versatile, and attractive. Natural linen has long been a fashionable choice for people wanting an easy-care, go-everywhere fabric. A linen dress or suit is an elegant choice for attending a wedding, but linen looks equally at home on the boardwalk or beach. If you have never sewn with linen, you may be afraid it is difficult to work with. Actually, linen is easy to sew; it does not slip or stretch when you are cutting it out or sewing a seam. However, linen is prone to shrinking and to fraying, so special care must be taken when preparing it for layout and when finishing seams. Choosing an Appropriate Fabric Weight Versatile natural linen comes in weights suitable for any project. Linen is ideal for warm weather because it "breathes," allowing perspiration to wick away from the skin. Light weight linen is great for summer dresses or tops and children's clothes. Medium weight linen is suitable for summer pants and shirts. Heavier weight linens are wonderful for summer suits or jackets. Linen is lovely for all sorts of home décor projects such as tablecloths, napkins, placemats, drapes, pillows, and slipcovers. It makes stylish shower curtains and guest towels. Linen is also ideal for historical enactment garments. While linen is ideal for nearly any project, it is not suitable for patterns requiring a stretchy fabric. The pattern's fabric suggestions are the best guidelines; if a pattern is suitable for linens, it will say so on the back of the envelope. You also must make sure that the color and print of the fabric you choose are suitable for the person who will wear the finished garment. I learned this the hard way. I spent a lot of time and effort making a beautiful cerise dress. The color looked great on the bolt of fabric and I had previously made a dress that I loved from this same pattern, but once I tried the finished garment on, I was very disappointed. Cerise is definitely not my color; it made me look too heavy. Choosing one of the many shades of natural un-dyed linen is one way to avoid this problem; the subtle neutral creams and beiges of un-dyed linen look great on any body shape. When choosing one of the numerous delightful shades of dyed linen fabric, keep in mind the colors which you know you look good in. Pre-treating Linen: to wash or not to wash So you have your fabric and your pattern chosen. You love the crisp look of that brand-new piece of linen. It seems a shame to pre-wash it before cutting it out and sewing it. Do you have to? I have found that the answer is yes and no. Because linen does shrink when washed, you must do something to minimize the shrinkage. You don't want to sew an absolutely lovely outfit, that fits perfectly, only to have it shrink to a size too small the first time it is washed. A large amount of shrinkage can also cause the garment's shape to become distorted. When choosing a pre-treatment option, remember you will want to continue to clean the garment the same way you pre-treated the fabric. Many people enjoy linen's natural tendency to soften when washed. Linen gets softer and more comfortable with each wash. If the finished garment is going to be washed in hot water, pre-treat your fabric by washing it in hot water before laying it out. Linen washed in extremely hot water will experience maximum shrinkage and thus will not shrink when washed again. If the finished garment will always be washed in cold or warm water, then pre-treat the fabric by washing it at that temperature. I generally pre-treat all my fabrics by rinsing them in plain water without any detergent and then hanging them up to dry. If you want your linen to stay as crisp as the day you bought it, you may want to dry clean the fabric before you lay it out. I have found that a nice alternative to dry cleaning is steam pressing the linen before you lay it out. In addition to steam from the iron, I use a damp press cloth or towel over the fabric. Always protect your linen with a press cloth when ironing; although ready-made press cloths are handy, any iron-able fabric will do. A an extra piece of the fabric you are working with makes a handy press cloth. In a pinch, I've even used damp paper towels. Laying out, Cutting and Marking Because of their distinctive texture and weaves, it is best to layout linen fabrics following the napped layout given in the pattern instructions. I have found that that as long as you follow the grain-line of the fabric, you can generally lay pattern pieces much closer than the picture in the layout suggests. (The grain of a fabric runs parallel to the selvages–the finished edge on each side of the fabric piece.) The thinner linens are a breeze to cut. You may find thicker linens easier to cut with a rotary cutter. If you use a rotary cutter remember to protect your table with an appropriate self-healing mat designed for rotary cutting. Holding a ruler as a guide on the straight edges of the pattern helps you achieve nice straight edges when using a rotary cutter. The next step in achieving a professional-looking linen garment is accurate marking. I generally use marking pencils to mark my patterns and tracing paper to mark details such as darts and pleats, but these tools are often not appropriate for heavily textured linens. Marking pencils and tracing paper don't leave sharp enough marks on some fabrics and the marks they do leave are often difficult to remove from heavily textured materials. Test your marking tools on a scrape of the intended fabric, before using them on the fabric itself. Tailor tacking is accurate, but time consuming (and something I just hate to do). I often mark with straight pins which have colored heads. If you don't mind if the pattern gets a little torn, place a regular straight pin (one without a large head) directly through the pattern markings. Then carefully remove the pattern, holding the marking pins so that they don't move. Once the pattern is removed, replace the pins, with pins that have a colored head. Be sure to position them securely and use care when moving the fabric pieces. This method works very well for marking the position of sleeves and fasteners. It can also work well for darts or pleats, if you carefully draw the dart or pleat lines after the pattern is removed, using the straight pins as guides. (In a pinch, I've used a regular number 2 pencil to do this; once folded and sewn, the marks will not show). Sewing Linen is a joy to handle at the sewing machine. It does not slip easily, so it can be pin basted. It guides easily over the feeddogs and does not need the delicate handling required by stretch knits, lamé and other specialty fabrics. Simply remember the basic rule of guiding, not pulling the fabric under the needle (after twenty years of sewing, I still sometimes find myself tempted by this common beginner's mistake). Any basic thread will be fine for linen Finishing the Seams Seam finishing is one key to a professional looking garment and all linen needs some sort of seam finish. On light-weight and medium-weight linens, a clean-finished edge works well and looks neat. A clean-finished edge requires two steps and takes a little-more time than simply zigzagging the raw edge, but it is worth the extra effort. To clean finish an edge, straight stitch approximately one-eighth inch to one-fourth inch from the edge and then turn the edge under on the stitch line and straight stitch through the two layers. You can also use double-fold bias tape or special seam-finishing tape to enclose the raw edges. This looks great, but if you are a beginner, you may find it somewhat tricky. I personally prefer the clean-finish method. It is easy to learn and requires no extra supplies. Of course, the clean-finish method is not suitable for finishing the armhole seam of a set-in sleeve. You can let the seam stay unfinished, but I prefer to zigzag the edges together after I have set the sleeve in. To avoid a bulky seam, most patterns recommend trimming the underarm seam between the notches, after setting in the sleeve. This is generally a good idea; zigzag over the trimmed edge as well. Press as You Go Another key to sewing a professional looking garment is to press every seam as you go. Commercial patterns always recommend this step, but when I first began sewing, I did not see the point of it and often neglected to do it. I've since discovered that it makes a real difference in the look of the finished piece. Using a press cloth, press the seam flat on both sides to set the stitches and then press the seam open. To save time, sew several pieces (such as sleeve seams, and side seams) in a batch and then press them before you sew the pieces together. Some fabrics do not require the use of a press cloth, but linen has a tendency to shine when pressed, so remember to protect it. A press cloth also helps to prevent scorching, but it's not foolproof, so use caution since linen scorches easily. Keeping the press cloth damp, even if you are using a steam iron, will help prevent problems and give your pressed details a nice crisp look. A Garment to be Proud of With a little effort and patience, even the novice home-sewer can produce a lovely linen garment. Don't be discouraged if your first attempt doesn't turn out as you envisioned it. Like any other skill, sewing takes practice; even experienced sewers occasionally make mistakes. Great thing is you can practice all your need to perfect your sewing skills with linen. Nice quality linen makes it easier for you to sew and provides better looking finished garments. And even though linen is considered a luxury fabric, it is not as expensive as it is thought to be. Just go to www.fabrics-store.com to make your linen selection and your fabric satisfaction is guaranteed. An avid seamstress, Elizabeth A. Quinn

- Attention: Want a total "point-and-click" online fabric store where you can buy top quality linen? Fabric With An Attitude. This Isn't Your Grandma's Tablecloth! Be A Part Of The Linen Revolution at Fabrics-Store.com - Plus, linen's hidden health benefits finally revealed! As you shop for fabric for your next bed & bath, home decor, fashion & apparel, or hobbyist project, have you considered using linen? As you think about the needs of your project, are you wondering if linen is the right choice for you? are you afraid that linen costs too much? do you fear linen won't hold up like other natural fibers? are you curious how linen stacks up synthetics? or, do you just wish you knew a little more about this timeless fabric before making a decision? At www.fabrics-store.com, we want to help you in your quest for the perfect fabric for all of your needs. We want to expose the benefits of linen, its qualities, and its applications. And, we want to reveal some of the "hidden secrets" of linen that are making it the new hottest fabric of 2008. Imagine that…a fabric that's been around for thousands of years is now new again! Everything Old Is New Again. Rediscover the Wonder of Linen. When you think of linen, what's the first thing that comes to mind? For many, it's their grandma's heirloom tablecloth or elegant napkins. For some, it's the lining in that fine suit or their favorite shirt. Still others think of its uses in their bathrooms, bedrooms, and living rooms. No matter what you think of, when it comes to the all-around perfect solution for your apparel, home décor, and bed & bath fabric choices, linen outperforms all the rest. Just as reliable for napkins and tablecloths as it is for fine suits and upholstery, linen stands for excellence in every application. Now, with its incredible health benefits exposed for the first time ever, there is no reason not to use linen in your next project. Read on to learn how linen is revolutionizing the way you can approach your design, décor, and hobbies in a whole new way!

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Eco-Friendly? Health-Conscious? Discover the Hidden Benefits of Linen A fabric that not only makes you feel great, but is healthy for you and helps protect the environment? Yes, linen is really that good! Even though this premiere all-natural fabric has been celebrated for thousands of years, researchers are learning more and more every day about the health benefits of linen. That's right; linen is the healthy fabric, a clean-living alternative that can have long-reaching and fundamental health benefits for you. Take a look at just a few of the reasons why linen is the healthy choice for long-lasting elegance as well as a healthier you!

ecologically-friendly hypoallergenic antibacterial thermo-regulating anti static gamma and solar radiation protection high air permeability high heat conductivity

Ecologically-Friendly Check this out: When you choose linen, you not only invest in the highest quality fabric, you help the environment. Linen requires five times less pesticides and fertilizers than cotton. Do your part. Buy linen. Hypoallergenic Linen, because of its natural fibers and production process, is specially formulated to be hypoallergenic. In other words, using and wearing linen will help you to avoid common allergic reactions found with other fabrics, particularly synthetics. Long recommended for people with sensitive skin, studies are now showing that linen may even actually help people overcome certain allergies. This is an exciting time for the science of linen and we here at Fabrics-store.com are just as eager as everybody to discover even more hidden health benefits of this fabulous fabric. We'll keep you posted! Antibacterial Linen is one of the "purest" fabrics available anywhere. Because of its incredibly strong tensile strength, linen resists not only stains and dirt, but also inhibits the growth of bacteria that are so common with fabrics that have neither the essential fiber qualities or fundamental weave of linen. Hospitals and service industries around the world use linen products to assure the utmost in sterile environments. In fact, linen thread is the only suture approved for internal use in the human body! Thermo-regulating A fabric that keeps you warm when it's cold and keeps you cool when it's hot? The benefits of linen just don't stop! Linen is naturally thermo-regulating-it's insulating in the cold, and cool and breathable when it's warm. In fact, studies have shown that people wearing linen in hot weather have skin temperatures many degrees cooler than people who aren't wearing linen. Keep your cool with linen! Additionally, linen whisks perspiration from the skin. Recent research has demonstrated that a person who wears linen sweats 1.5 times less than when wearing cotton and 2 times less than when wearing a synthetic such as rayon. And, because of its high heat conductivity which is five times as high as wool and 19 times that of silk, it's the obvious choice in all temps. Antistatic No more getting shocked! The negative impact of static electricity build up can't be underestimated. Additionally, when sewing with linen, you'll no longer have to apply anti-stats to your thread lubricant-one step that can save you time and money, as well as those little zaps and the effect they have on the tensile integrity of your thread. Gamma and Solar Radiation Protection Fabric that protects you from the sun? That's right, linen has shown to reduce gamma radiation by nearly half and offers strong protection against solar radiation. When selecting the perfect fabric for home décor or apparel, linen is the obvious choice especially as compared to wool which has relatively poor resistance to sunlight. High Air Permeability Linen breathes naturally. As compared to other natural fibers and synthetics like polyester, linen offers superior breathability and comfort. As you can see, linen is revolutionizing the way people think about their fabrics-healthier, cleaner, all-around better for you. But, its health benefits are just the beginning of its value. Visit www.fabrics-store.com to see our fine selection of the most affordable linens on the web or Read on to discover what sets linen apart from all other fabrics.

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Don't Let Them Pull The Wool Over Your Eyes. Linen Is The Clear Winner Every Time. The benefits of linen are undeniable. From being easy to sew, to its durability and ease of care, linen is almost always the perfect fabric choice for every application. Wait a minute…it's not just "almost always," linen IS always the perfect fabric choice. Take a look at some of the reasons why linen is simply unmatched in quality and excellence.

highly absorbent extremely durable long lasting resists lint and pilling easy to sew moth resistant resists dirt, stains, and abrasions easy care

Highly Absorbent Linen is hygroscopic. In other words, it rapidly absorbs and releases moisture. In fact, linen can absorb up to 20% of its own weight in water before it even feels wet-making it the perfect choice for your dish towels and napkins. Extremely Durable With its high tensile strength, linen is up to three times as strong as both cotton and wool. No more worrying about everyday use-you'll pull out your linens for every occasion. In addition, linen's durability makes it a joy to work with for all your apparel, hobby, and home décor projects. Exceptionally Long-lasting Linen is one of the few fabrics that actually gets better with age. Softer. Smoother. More lustrous. Lasting up to 12 times as long as cotton, linens regularly pass from generation to generation and redefine the meaning of heirloom. Easy to Sew, Non-Shrinking and Non-Stretching Due to the linen fabric weave, even sewing beginners can have wonderful results with their first project. Cutting a pattern out of linen is a breeze compared to other fabrics, the linen thread works as a grid making it easier on your eyes. Less ironing is involved while sewing with linen, to have a corner or a hem hold until you are ready to sew it, you do not need an iron, you just need your hand to run over the fold and linen fabric will stay in place. Because it only minimally stretches or shrinks upon first cleaning, linen is the obvious alternative to cottons and wools for all your fabric needs. No more guesswork on how much shrinkage you'll need to account for in your patterns. No more stretching, so your completed work always keeps its perfect fit and finish. Abrasion Resistant When you want the elegance of silk, but its delicacy just won't stand up to the demands of your project, consider the stubborn alternative. Linen is obstinately resistant to scrapes, scratches, snags, and scuffs. Moth Resistant No more moth balls? What a relief! Naturally resistant to the most common fabric-devouring bugs, including moths and carpet beetles-due to its long, strong parallel fiber structure-never worry about moths again. All-Around Ease of Care Try to imagine a high-end fabric that can just as easily be put in the washing machine, steamed, or dry cleaned. How nice would that be? With linen, you don't have to imagine…"easy care" just got a whole lot easier. Dirt and Stain Resistant It's in the fiber! Thanks to molecular structure of flax, linen is naturally resistant to dirt and stains. Non-Linting and Pilling No more lint? No more pilling? Linen really could be just about the perfect fabric. The original flax fiber plus the process of creating linen make it resistant to collecting lint or pilling. Say goodbye to the raggedy look of those little pill balls forever. As you can see, linen has a long pedigree of benefits. It's unmatched in quality, luxury, excellence, and ease of use. Discover for yourself why there is no comparison to linen at www.fabrics-store.com.

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One Fabric. A Million Uses. Is There Anything It Can't Do? Take a look at just a few of the many, many uses of linen. Then, start imagining how linen is going to take your next project to a new level of durability, style, and quality.

Bed & Bath   duvet covers pajamas for men nightgowns bed sheets pillow shams bed skirts shower curtains decorative pillows bath robes guest towels bath towels wash cloths any other quality bed and bath accessories

Kitchen & Table Linens   tablecloths napkins placemats runners chair cushions dish towels bread bags grocery tote

Home Décor & Commercial Furnishings   wallpaper wall coverings upholstery slipcovers couch pillows window treatments beds for your pets decorative fabrics for every application

Apparel & Fashion   suits dresses skirts jackets kids clothes shirts pants re-enactment costumes shoes any article of fine clothing

Industrial Products   luggage canvases sacks

As you can see, linen has infinite possibilities. With linen, the only limitation is your imagination. Discover how fun, easy, and satisfying it is to work with linen today at www.fabrics-store.com. Superior Quality. Unmatched Value. The Fabrics-Store.com Difference "Linen is linen, right?" Wrong! Just as with any other fabric, natural or synthetic, there are good options and not-so-good options. There's a wide range of quality. There's an even larger range of price points. We're proud to offer the best quality at the lowest prices. When you choose your linen from fabrics-store.com, you are investing in superior quality. With linens made from only hand-harvested flax with natural retting, we offer you the finest linens available in the world. And, because we have exclusive relationships with premiere mills, you find some of the lowest prices anywhere on the best quality linens - no middleman charges Our focus has always been to provide you with the widest selection of high quality fine linens to suit your needs no matter what your project. Available in all weights, from lightweight to heavyweight fabric, in natural, colored, jacquard, and yarn-dyed, you'll find over 115 options to satisfy all your linen desires. This is what makes www.fabrics-store.com different and we're proud to offer it to you. Made Exclusively For Fabrics-Store.com Many first-time buyers wonder if we're able to offer such low prices because we're selling close outs. The answer is absolutely not! We do NOT sell close-out or factory seconds fabrics. The fabrics you see at www.fabrics-store.com are not close outs. In fact, they are manufactured specifically for us. It's more time intensive and expensive, but-again, since we've cut out the middleman-we're proud to be able to offer you only the finest selection of superior linens at highly competitive prices. State-of-the-Art Online Shopping Experience With a state-of-the-art online store that allows you to find, compare, and buy choice linens at the click of a button, online shopping for your fabric needs has never been easier. In fact, many of our customers-both our wholesale and retail clients-comment on how buying online from us was a better experience than any in-store purchase they'd ever had. That makes us very happy.

Check out a few of the benefits you'll receive when you shop at fabrics-store.com: Finest pure linen at the best prices in stock now Free fabric swatches Easy to find your perfect fabric-4 easy steps or less! Quick and easy ordering Courteous personal service Same-day shipping with fast delivery Guaranteed satisfaction Weekly sales, specials and discounts Fantastic Rewards Program Secure online ordering and shipment tracking Credit card, check, money order, fax, and PayPal accepted

Visit www.fabrics-store.com today for all your fabric needs and begin learning how our linen will change the way you think about fabric forever!

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By Kass Mc Gann

History

Possibly the most ubiquitous female garment in every time period is the skirt. Allied so closely to femininity, "skirt" became a slang term for women in the 1930s. But it was not always so. At its beginning, the word "skirt" didn't refer to a female garment at all. The modern English word "skirt" comes from the Old Norse word skyrta, meaning a shirt, a man's garment. During the Renaissance, "skirts" referred to the bottom part of a man's tunic or doublet — the skirts or tabs around the waist of the garment. Until the 19th century, the proper term for what we call a woman's skirt was "petticoat".

The word "petticoat" too did not always refer to a woman's undergarment either. Like the skirt, the petticoat was originally a male garment — a padded upper-body garment worn under armour, a small coat when "coat" was the word for the man's upper-body garment or gown in the 1300s. By 1464 it was applied to a garment worn by women and young children. By 1593, it meant the typical feminine garment, hence a symbol of female sex or character.

In the 15th century, the introduction of a waist seam in women's clothing led to a difference in construction of body and skirts. By the 16th century, petticoats were what we modernly call skirts. Worn under gowns as extra layers for warmth or to give more body to the gown skirts or worn in multiples themselves with jackets and doublets, petticoats are essential to female living history impressions from the 16th through the 18th centuries.

The length of petticoats varied wildly. We often think that proper women did not show their ankles, but this is not true for all classes and all time periods. Among the working classes, wearing a petticoat that reached the shoes was simply cumbersome. There are pictures and accounts of petticotes that just cover the knees. Upper class ladies, however, had petticotes that piled on the ground around them and trailed feet behind them.

Petticoats are so simple to make that few companies make patterns for them. But though materials and methods of decoration varied wildly over the decades of those centuries, the shape of petticoats changed little. Petticotes were made by gathering, knife pleating, cartirdge pleating, box pleating and other methods. The following instructions are for a knife-pleated petticote.

The Basic Petticote Silhouette

Cutting

1. Get some lovely medium weight linen from fabrics-store.com. IL019 is terrific for petticoats.
2. Measure from your waist to where you want the petticoat to end. Call this measurement A.
3. Cut two rectangles at full fabric width (~58” wide) and measurement A + 2” long from your fabric.)

If you wish to line your petticoat, cut two more rectangles of the same size and sew them to the first pair along their lower egdes. Follow all the rest of the instructions as if they are one piece.

Pleating

1. Sew the two rectangles together, right sides to right sides, from the bottom, along the measurement A sides, stopping 8” from the top.
2. Roll hem the last 8” of the side seams. These will be your pocket access slits.
3. Roll hem the top of the rectangles.
4. Fold the petticoat rectangles in half to find the center front at the top edge of the fabric. Mark this spot on both front and back pieces.
5. Snip a small notch 1" to the right of the center front point. Next snip a notch ½" to the right of the 1" notch. Then snip 1" to the right of the ½" one and so on until you reach the right edge.
6. Repeat from the center point travelling to the left edge.
7. Turn the left side of the apron so that it is away from you. With your fingers, crease the fabric at the second notch from the top. You should now have a "peak" pleat (shown as a dashed line in fig 11 at left). Fold this peak pleat away from you so that the first notch is creased into a "valley."
8. Place this first pleat under the presser foot of your machine and tack. Lower your needle into the fabric. Raise the presser foot. Crease the fabric at the fourth notch into a mountain pleat and fold it away from you, creating a valley pleat at the third notch. Continue creasing at the even notches as far as you can comfortably hold in place with your hand. Lower the presser foot, being careful that the pleats remain folded away from you. Slowly sew down the pleats, sewing less than ½" from the top edge of the Petticote piece. As you near the end of the pleats you've made, repeat the process. You can stop after sewing each individual pleat or sew a few at a time. When you reach the end and there are no more notches, tack and cut your threads.
   
   (To pleat by hand, you may want to pin the pleats in place so they don't move as you sew them. Pressing the pleats with an iron will also help avoid slippage. Again, sew less than ½" from the top edge of the Petticote piece. Make your stitches small enough to keep the pleats in place. Backstitching will hold the pleats better than a regular basting stitch.)
   Do this with both rectangles.

Waist Treatment

1. Cut a piece of twill tape or narrowware long enough to comfortably wrap around your waist and tie in a bow. Cut a second piece the same length. (Alternately, you can cut only one piece 2" longer than your waist and close it with hooks, but the double waistband is more convenient.)
2. Find the center point of the petticoat front and mark it with a pin. Do the same with the back.
3. Fold the waistbands (twill tape or narrowware) in half and find the center point. Mark it with a pin.
4. Lay a waistband on top of the petticoat front, right sides to right sides. Align the center points.
5. Keeping the edge of the waistband aligned with the top edge of the front, sew over the pleats starting from the center of the front across to the right edge and then from the center to the left.
6. Fold the waistband up and over the Petticote front top edge, catching all the raw edges inside it. Stitch the waistband down on the inside of the petticoat front. A blind stitch works nicely here.
7. Repeat steps 4-6 for the petticoat back.
8. Continue folding the part of the waistband that’s not attached to the petticoat. Tuck the raw ends inside the waistband and whipstitch closed.

Wearing

Step into the petticoat and pull the back panel up to your waist and center it. There are two ways your petticoat can be tied. One way is to tie the back waistband around your waist in front, and to tie the front waistband around your waist and knot them in the back. This makes your petticoats very secure. The other way is to tie the waistbands to each other at the sides.

References

1. "petticoat." Online Etymology Dictionary. Douglas Harper, Historian. 11 May. 2007.Dictionary.com
2. "skirt." Ibid.
3. Fabrics-store.com

By Lisette BC Abbott

Linen. The word alone can be intimidating if you're not a seamstress or tailor. It conjures up exotic locales, perhaps with the ocean's waves lapping at the coastline, while the sun brilliantly illuminates the pearlescent white caps of the waves. Or, at least that what it does for me. I come from a long line of non-sewing women, so when I started getting that urge to create clothes, it was almost shocking. Well, almost doesn't quite fit. It was shocking. I still rarely sew, and I just learned to knit, but I've fallen in love with materials and linen–that soft, sumptuous byproduct of the flax plant!

Linen–true linen, not the generalizing term applied to cotton and other fibers–is soft, malleable, and very cooling, wonderful in the southern climes. Because linen has been around for eons, our ancestors used the material in their day-to-day dress. Is it any wonder, then, that historical societies also use linen? These historical societies fervently pursue authenticity by using the same materials that were actually used in the past, but in today's world whether it's the greenhouse effect or what, the temperature sure feels like it's getting hotter. Frankly, modern humans aren't as used to this heat as our ancestors may have been. With our air-conditioned cars, offices, and houses, we've gotten used to always being cool. So when we participate in our hobbies, like historical societies, we still want to remain cool. That's something hard to do when we're dressing in twenty pounds of clothing and romping around in faux villages. That's where linen comes to the rescue. So while we're remaining authentic by patterning our historical re-enactment clothing on historically-accurate linen, we sure do benefit from using linen.

Have you ever been to an historical re-enactment? They're quite fun, actually. And with history now becoming "popular," there are many more from which to choose. The SCA, or Society for the Creative Anachronism, is a big organization that hosts countless historical re-enactments of the middle ages. Actually, they're not really "re-enactments," per se. The events the SCA hosts are more like "living history" tableaux. In other words, when members get together at these events, they're no longer members of the 21st century. Rather, they become the personae that they've adopted for themselves. These personae are with them during their membership in the SCA. For example, I–as Lisette BC Abbott–no longer exist when I participate in an SCA event. Instead, a middle-class persona named Lady Isabella D'Artagnon, newly of the Kingdom of Meridies, emerges. And Lady Isabella will not wear jeans, the everyday attire of Lisette. Lady Isabella wears her rectangular-sleeved linen chemise that's banded at neckline and cuffs, and which gently falls into a billowing skirt. Over this chemise Lady Isabella wears her simple overcoat that's laced up and ends just below the last rib.

Linen is prevalent in SCA costumes and at the Renaissance Fairs. However, the middle ages and the renaissance weren't the first times in history that linen's been used for clothing.

Linen's a natural fiber, and because of its natural state, it's adaptive to all environments. And to all points in time. As I mentioned earlier, our ancestors knew what they had with linen. In Ancient Egypt, Egyptians' clothing was primarily made of linen. In fact, linen was a valuable commodity, if not a downright priceless commodity. In fact, many members of the laboring class were paid in either food or clothing for their agricultural work. Nevertheless, those who had more money were able to dress up their otherwise plain linen shifts with dazzling jewelry like onyx bracelets or amethyst rings. They also were able to wear golden or shell bracelets or earrings to provide startling visual contrast to their linen shifts. However, the wealthier class didn't necessarily wear more jewelry than the poorer class. Instead what visually set the wealthier class apart from the poorer class was their clothes. Namely, the wealthier could afford to wear white or transparent linen. After all, workers were needed to thoroughly scrub the white linen so it would remain pristine. And just imagine how long it took to create cloth so fine and delicate it was transparent!

But why did linen play such an important part in Egyptian clothing? For the simple fact that linen was readily available. Keep in mind that linen comes from the flax plant. As the flax plant grew alongside the Nile River, agricultural workers harvested the plant. From there, the plant was soaked, fibers were separated then beaten to a softness, attached to a spindle where the fibers were twisted into a rope, and then spun on a loom. From that lengthy process, linen was born and Egyptian clothing was made.

Thankfully, those of us who participate in historical re-enactments or simply like to attend Renaissance Fairs need not harvest our own flax plants, soak and beat them, then spin them on our personal looms. Instead we can purchase yards of the softest material we want (or can afford!) and have our clothing made from it. If we're really lucky or blessed, we might be handy with a needle or sewing machine and make our own clothing. If not, we cultivate friendships with people who are domestically talented and beg or barter for our re-enactment clothes.

While I don't know of any historical re-enactments for ancient Egypt, there are plenty of people who strive for authenticity in ancient Egyptian-styled clothing. Think of all those wonderful A & E documentaries exploring the lives of such Egyptian luminaries as Cleopatra, Tutenkhamen, and daily life along the Nile River. And what about those fabulous Eyewitness books? Or the Treasure Chests series, particularly the Ancient Egypt or Medieval Knight kits? In our own home, my family loves to explore these videos, books, and Treasure Chests, often putting together our own, noticeably home-made and highly amateurish (but fun nonetheless!) Egyptian tunic and Templar Knight mantle. In order to produce credible and authoritative videos, books, and kits, there are real people diligently scouring history books, artwork, and fashion history researching ancient Egyptian clothing. Since many of these videos are primarily educational (while being downright fun to watch), the wardrobe mistresses or masters must strive for authenticity. The same goes for the books and, yes, the Treasure Chests. And also because credible historians are lending their names to these video and book projects, editors and the rest of the production staff involved in the making of these productions must strive for authenticity.

So fabulously historically-authentic clothing demands the material of which actual Ancient Egyptians and medieval dwellers used. Linen. While we in the 21st century need not pull our own flax plants (never cutting them as that ruined the plant), nor must we beat the plant in order to get it as soft as possible–which translates to soft material–we can and do search for the softest linen to drape around our shoulders or let fall along our hips.

We may not be Cleopatra or some fine medieval lady, but it sure is fun to play Queen for the Day. And that calls for wearing the most sumptuous and exquisite linen we can find. After all, we're striving for authenticity, too.

By Lisette BC Abbott

Let me ask you a question: what do you think of when you're dressing in the morning? Do you think of whether or not your outfit matches? Or whether or not it becomes you? Or whether or not you'd like to lose some weight so you can wear a smaller size? Or do you think of the significance of being able to wear whatever you wish, without any thought to whether or not you're violating codified or unspoken rules? Chances are you don't think of the latter. Some of you may, but I'd wager the majority of us simply think about whether or not our outfit looks good on us.

Being a former academic (I used to teach at the university level), I'm a member of several organizations, primarily history and writing organizations. However, the ones I have the most fun with are living history organizations. I've mentioned being in the SCA, or Society for the Creative Anachronism. Another fun organization, of which I'm not a member–yet, is The Society of Early America. Like the SCA, the SEA is a living history organization. And as such, they're very careful to strive for authenticity in their portrayals of daily life in early America and their dress.

Which brings me to the reality of the significance of dress, clothing, and material used by the different segments of early American society.

Let's do a little time travel, shall we? We'll try to get into the mindset of colonial Americans when they dictated and followed very exact dress codes. After all, if we're going to either participate in or attend a Society of Early America living history tableaux, we'd do well to understand why they dress as they do beyond the simple fact of their striving for authenticity.

Since early America is too-often presented as the Pilgrims sharing Thanksgiving with the Indians, it's sometimes easy to forget about the early Scots, Irish, Dutch, Spanish, French, Germans, and Africans, among other nationalities, that lived, worked, loved, and died on this land alongside the English Pilgrims.

Before the puritans came in the 1600s, the Spanish were already here. And following Spain's footsteps were the French and the Dutch. And we should not forget that even before the Spanish, French, and Dutch arrived, Indians were living on this land. As for Africans, we tend to think of their arrival via slave boats in the late 1700s or early 1800s. Frankly, that's wrong. In fact, historians believe the first boat to bring Africans to America (specifically, to the Jamestown colony) was in 1619. While future articles may explore clothing from other early Americans, this article is going to explore the most famous, or infamous, segment of early American society–the puritans.

Because the puritans strove for simplicity in their dress as a reaction to what they perceived as the growing corruption in the English Court, these puritans brought their same ideas of behavior and dress when they came to America. However, I must make it clear that there are two distinct sets of puritans who came to early America. The first, also known as the Pilgrims of Thanksgiving fame, came for religious reasons because they were being persecuted in England. But that's not the only reason: they also wanted to model a city, that "shining city upon a hill" that would serve as a visual beacon to those they left behind, namely England. They wanted to show that it was possible for a theocracy to effectively run an orderly city.

The second band of puritans who came, those in the later 1600s, were considerably wealthier and were rather severe in their dress and attitude towards those whom they regarded as "different." Whereas the earlier group of puritans, the Mayflower Pilgrims, were equally religious, they were more tolerant of others in that they cultivated their relationships with the indigenous Indians. The second band of puritans didn't.

Nevertheless, both groups of puritans shared similar dress codes, with the Mayflower group being the most severe. The men shaved their heads, thus the derogatory name of "Roundhead," and the women dressed plainly and refused to wear any type of jewelry or other adornment. To do so was considered vain and, thus, indicative of a predisposition to evil. Why was such an extreme approach to something as trivial as dress taken? To better understand the puritan thought processes, we need to contextualize the timeframe.

Since the English court had been in a series of upheavals (from the Protestant-cum-Church of England's King Henry VIII to the Catholic Queen Mary to the Protestant Queen Elizabeth to the Protestant King Charles II to the "posthumous execution" of Lord Protector, Oliver Cromwell), the court was, in the eyes of the puritans, becoming increasingly decadent and immoral.

Already frequently reflecting court rule, court fashions during Charles II's reign were excessive, with pounds of luxurious fabric to make one dress that