Nico — Bias Cut Dresses & Tops

Price:
Paper Pattern: $45.00

Nico is a pattern collection of sleeveless, bias-cut dresses and tops with side bust darts and a scoop neckline that easily slips over the head with no closures needed. Available in Maxi Dress, Short Dress, Tunic or Camisole variations.

Pattern specifications:

Type: Paper Pattern
Design Variations: 4
Sizes: 0-30
Illustrations: Yes
Instructions: Yes

Paper Pattern

View Size Chart
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nico dress pattern
Reviewer: Lynne

Thank You, Catina for your quick reply. Can't imagine what happened to my request through Ask but glad I wrote on this site. I will be tied up until late October so as soon as I can, I will send pictures, etc. I cannot imagine how lovely it would be to have this camisole, dress, and maxi in my repertoire for easy living summer clothing. Look forward to working with you and thank you again. Lynne

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Nico dress pattern
Reviewer: Anonymous

I too was so excited to get this pattern in the mail. I am 68 years old and cut out a size 8 for the bust and widened 5/8" for waist and hips. I am a C-D cup and that tiny dart on the side is way too high and probably designed for a B cup at the largest. I did try lowering the bust dart but it still came out not fitting at all. so then I went on the adventure to do a full bust adjustment and lower the bust dart and I ended up with two large french darts and to deal with the excess at the neckline, two small darts there. The thing that disappoints me at the most is that I wrote an email ten days ago asking for help which you say we can do and I have heard nothing back. Have you actually tested this garment in a larger busted woman or are they all young girls with high busts? In that case you should note that this pattern is just for young women. I don't like darts that are high because that accentuates that my bustline is not! Also, when sewing on bias, usually you cut a little bigger to accommodate how the bias tends to become narrower on the body. I would really appreciate some feedback. Thank you.

F|S Team
Catina

Thank you so much for sharing your experience. You mentioned you wrote in to our customer service email (Ask@Fabrics-Store.com), but I could not find a message from you anywhere. I would have really enjoyed working with you on customizing your fit. :) I tried on the size 8 (I'm a 37" bust with a D cup post 5 babies) and it fit me great though the bust and waist, but a little too snug for my size 16 hips! I chose to do this pattern draft with a diagonal "French dart" that was meant to behave more like a side panel would... not to be a literal point stopping right at the apex of the bust. This way I found it to work better across a range bust cup sizes (and apex heights). This is not to say that the dart cannot be adjusted to a different location or made fuller, but I am available should anyone like guidance. You are right in that the bias can become more "narrow" if the body beneath allows for it to hang and conform... but what is also wonderful is that it will also "stretch" to conform to a larger shape. Since we all have different preferences in how loose or fitted we like our garments, I always recommend taking a look at the Finished Garment Measurements on the Size Chart. I am happy to give you feedback and advise specific to your fit needs but I would need more information and if possible, photos would be helpful as well.

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Thanks, Catina, for your reply
Reviewer: Blythe

Thank you, Catina & the FS team for your reply. In re-reading my post, I see I wasn't very clear. The steps I took with the fabric were 1) serged raw edges & washed; 2) used mordant/fixative process of simmering in sumac "tea" and repeated dips in soy milk (drying on clothesline between dips) 3) cut out pattern pieces; 4) arranged plant materials on pieces of fabric, applied fixatives of copper & iron, rolled up, steamed 3 hrs, left overnight, hung out to dry next day; 5) rinsed and dried again (on clothesline); 6) sewed. What I *should* have done was to serge or staystitch all the edges right after cutting all the pieces. Also, when hanging to dry, I should not have hung by shoulder straps. Still, it all worked out. I wore this dress nearly every day on a recent trip to Hawaii and it was absolutely wonderful! Love the way it moves with your body when you wear it. Love the way it breathes. Love the French seams. Definitely going to make another one. I think making a draft dress out of an old sheet or something would be a simple way of seeing where to adjust.

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Eco Dye Nico Dress Turned Out Great
Reviewer: Blythe

I really debated a long time on whether to pay that much for a pattern. I decided to take the plunge and am glad I did. I really appreciate the thick paper and detailed instructions. I am getting back into sewing, so this dress (maxi version, size 6) was a bit of a challenge for me. I needed to shorten it about 2" and wasn't sure where to do that. I ended up taking it up just above the top of the side slit near the bottom. In retrospect, I should have taken some there and also some at the shoulder straps. Or is there a better place? The other modification I would make would be to take small tucks in under the arms. All-in-all, though, it is a good pattern for a variety of body types. I only had 1.5 yards instead of 2, but I managed to make it work. My main problem was with the triangles at the bottom, which I must not have gotten on the bias right and they ended up a little wonky. My biggest mistake, though, was that I wanted to eco-dye it with my garden plants, and so I serged the edges & pre-washed the fabric (ILO19 bleached, softened), and cut out the pieces so I could better arrange the leaves & flowers. BUT I should have serged the edges of the cut pieces first. Steaming the fabric & hanging out to dry caused the edges to fray a bit & the triangles to stretch (and possibly also the shoulder straps). Still, the dress turned out absolutely beautiful! Very forgiving fabric! I am looking forward to making another one! Love the options provided for in this multi-purpose pattern & hope the designers will perhaps provide an option for short sleeves. I give 4 stars only because of lack of direction on how to shorten or lengthen. A more experienced sewist probably wouldn't have a problem.

F|S Team
Catina

Blythe! First, let me say how beautiful you look in your custom-dyed Nico! Thank you for sharing those wonderful photos and your project. With your talent, I'm so happy to hear that the Nico inspired you to get back into actively sewing! Feel free to contact me directly at our customer support email (ask@fabrics-store.com) anytime you have questions about our patterns or sewing with our linen. You are right though, you may have benefitted from taking out that 2" length over a few places... it just depends on our individual proportions. It sounds like you could have used an inch taken out of the waist length. For the shoulder straps since the fabric is on the bias, they can stretch out very quickly if the raw edges are not single-needle staystitched. I'm not sure if you meant that you washed the full fabric yardage first or the cut/serged pieces first. If the latter, I would not suggest that since the pieces being on the bias can become very skewed and warped. In the near future, we hope to have exclusive, interactive "sew-along" events for our Nico Pattern. This will cover sewing, fitting, and even customizing to new styles such as adding sleeves!

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Does not fit as depicted
Reviewer: Sheryl

I was so excited to receive the Nico pattern but terribly disappointed in the fit. Based on my measurements, I made a mock up in a size 14, before cutting into my linen. Per the description, the pattern paper is heavy, lines are easy to see, & storing the pattern in the tube keeps it safe. That earns 2 stars. However, the fit is horrible. The top is super baggy under the arms & the darts are incorrectly placed; probably because the front straps are too long. Snug through the hips. It would take a complete redesign to fix & not just a simple tuck. I am returning the pattern.

F|S Team
Catina

Thank you so much for your constructive feedback and your kind comment about the quality of our paper and presentation. I regret to hear you did have an enjoyable fit experience and appreciate that you gave it a try. The suggested body measurements for the Size 14 are 40 ” bust, 31 ” waist and 42 ” for the hips. Sometimes though, it is best to consider the finished garment measurements. The added ease to the Size 14 Nico is 3” in the bust, 8” in the waist and 3” in the hips. It has been my experience with the Nico that the bias cut of the linen has a forgiving “stretch and conform” characteristic and after a few rounds of “wearing & washing” the fit really settled in nicely to my unique shape. I chose to do this pattern draft with a diagonal “French dart” that was meant to behave more like a side panel would… not to be a literal point stopping right at the apex of the bust. This way I found it to work better across a range bust cup sizes. For the length of the straps, I do know that if I do not staystitch the neckline and armholes as my first step, that bias really stretches out and my straps will be much longer than intended. It is certainly possible though that one might still find it desirable to shorten the length of the straps to preference. I certainly understand that fit issues can be disconcerting, and always we are liberally and happily available via customer service to offer our assistance and advice. - Catina

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Superior pattern
Reviewer: Cathy

I have made this pattern six times and varied it slightly with each garment. This dress/top pattern is one of Fabrics-Store.com's best. I raised the neckline about an inch and a half. (Just tape more paper to your pattern top.) This is the perfect dress pattern for garments that you can dress up with jackets, light knit sweater cardigans, or chunky jewelry. It can also serve as a slip or under dress for layering under other garments if you get very sheer linen.

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BEAUTIFUL DRESS!
Reviewer: Margaret

Easy download and easily printed by those that know the process. The sewing may take someone that has sewing experience which I do. The dress is well worth the time and being cut o. The bias makes it hang beautifully and I will definitely purchase fabric and sew from y'all again. The fabric is some of the most beautiful linen I have found. I am not a small girl and found the neckline to be a bit wide and deep so just check it out as you may want to simply pull up the shoulder seam before you put the binding in place. Nice job!

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Nico Pattern
Reviewer: Barbara

I made the Nico dress. I cut it on the bias for my 8 year old grand daughter. I did adjust the arm hole to make it smaller for her thin arms and cut the back lower to give her more room to put the dress on. I raised the front neck so when she bends over her entire front body is not exposed. As a girl may do, she made her own adjustment to the style. She likes the dress backwards! Regardless of my plan she did want the front lower and the back higher as the dress was originally designed. The pattern sewed up beautifully and she loves it. She is such a pretty girl. I called and got Magnolia's exact measurements and the size 6 fit her perfectly. I would have chosen a larger size by her age but the pattern measurements worked perfectly. Thank you for your care in styling and pattern making.

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LINEN...The ONLY Fabric for me
Reviewer: Jessica

For me Natural Linen is the best. I am an Heirloom Sewing Master and many of my designs are made using Handkerchief Linen.I have taught many classes using this fabric as well as Swiss Batiste and French laces. My specialties are Wedding dresses and accessories, I also love to design Christening gowns. Your Linens are ideal for my work. Thank you for making them available.

Post Your Work
Nico — Bias Cut Dresses & Tops

Long Nico in ceramic linen, from the pieced pattern right before the printed one came available. I chose the color to match these shoes! I ended up taking it in at the shoulders once it was all done, with the extra folds visible on the outside and embellished with abalone buttons.

Posted by Maggi
Nico — Bias Cut Dresses & Tops

Back side of the Nico dress with plant dyes.

Posted by Blythe
Nico — Bias Cut Dresses & Tops

Eco-dyed Nico Dress in ILO19 bleached & softened

Posted by Blythe